There is a darker side to this island than what you see in the pictures and hear about our blog. Crime has no limitations, no jurisdiction. There is a funny thing about crime. Sometimes, you never see it, or even know its there, but it lives. Even out here, half way around the world, on a tiny paradise island, crime lives. I am not going to paint over it with a brush and replace it with pictures of sunny beaches and coconut shakes, but instead, tell you what really goes on. However, first let me give you some background information.
In 1933 Koh Tao became a political prison. Thousands of criminal minds alike and different, were banished to the confined walls of a jail cell, surrounded by dense, uninhabited jungle and unforgiving waters. A nightmare for detainies and an oasis for touists (It is ironic I know). Things stayed this way for nearly fourteen years until 1947, when the Prime Minister at that time pleaded and recieved the Royal pardon for all prisoners who were lucky enough to find themselvs here. Once more Koh Tao was abandoned.
In the same year, two fisherman (Brothers) from Koh Phangan- a neighboring island- decided to move and begin there lives on what was at the time, a pristine island. The two brothers started families and formed the first generation of indigenous peoples to begin living here.
Nearly thirty years later, the first backpackers reached Koh Tao by longboat, and started a trend. Since then, Koh Tao has thrived with more than 500,000 tourists from all over the world every year. However, with so many foreigners coming to the island, opening businesses and taking land, the locals, which by this time have extended a few generatons, began to plan a mutiny.
I first heard about this mutany from an Aussie who has been living here for five years. He was very eager to tak about it with me, as if no one had brought up the subject in many years, which turned out to be the case. Many of the long termers, and most of the locals are reluctant to speak about what goes on here on Koh Tao, fearful that something may happen to them.
As the Aussie continus to peak my curiosity, I peak his interest and continue to ask questions, digging deeper into the dark history behind this island. He goes on to tell me how the island is run by mafias. The first, second, and third generation families that inhabitated this oasis began to form sectional mafia groups, each family taking over a different section of the island. They control who builds what, who sells what, and exert command through the usual style associated with organized crime. If someone decides they want to start a business, whether they be locals or foreigners, they must pay a percentage of income to the mafia. From what I hear and understand, they are quite understanding and geneous, only demanding what you are capable of giving. More so with the local thais is there a violence. People getting greedy and refusing to pay their way will find out exactly how the mafia enforces there control. It is not an uncommon tale, where a man has been sitting at a bar, who has previously spat in the faces of the mafia, to get shot, stabbed, or miracerously dissapear.
This type of organized crime went on for many years until 2013, when two british tourists were viscously murdered on the beach. I cant find someone who is willing to tell me if the attack was directly intentional, or a random act of violence, but it was none the less ruthless. A man and woman, enjoying there vacation and lounging about one night, met there demise on a beach not far from the Aussie’s boats. The Aussie being so close to the scene gave me a descript understanding of what happened, but I wont go into detail. Needless to say the man and woman were brutally attacked and there bodies were recovered later the next day.
Since then, things on this island have begun to change. The police force have increased ten fold, and no longer take big bribes from members of organized crime. They began to crack down on everything from drugs to immigration.
“Five years ago, it wasnt uncommon to be out at the pub, lighting one up and hanging with your mates. You see, we knew which bars to go to and which to not go to. The families of the mafia who bribe whatever police there was here and it would keep them out of everyones business. They wouldnt dare come up to any of the hang out spots, now everything has changed, mate. Now, you’ll get locked up good and pay your way out.”
The Aussie continues on for an hour, talking about the time before the murders. I ask him if the police know who commited the crime.
“Everyone knows, mate. But no one will say a word in fear that something bad will happen to them. Its a small island, everyone knows everyone.”
I can sense he is telling the truth, because many other people are reluctant to speak about it. Things will not be this way for much longer, however. With the police making a stand and things becoming official, many people think the mafia rule is coming to an end. In the next five years, its suspected by not only the Aussie, but by people in the dive community, and some of the locals, the mafia will have been washed clean and Koh Tao will join civilization for good.
Playing devils advocate, that also means more laws, more regulations, and inevitably more people. People bring along with them businesses, houses, cars, and other variables that could poison the beauty of this island. Koh Tao will not be an Oasis for much longer, I fear. More and more people are visiting this tiny island every year. As one tourist leaves, he sets forth to tell ten more about the wanders of this place. Today there are many places you can go here to have a moment of clarity, and to be alone. In a decade, im not sure you’ll still be able to find solitude. It’s a shame to have such violence in such a beautiful place, of course. But is it worth the sanctity of this island?
Michael Gilmore, for Scuba Sex Sunshine, signing off.
(Always wanted to do that)
Scuba Sex Sunshine 